Friday, June 13, 2014

Post # 50 Fairbanks--River Boat Cruise

Wednesday and Thursday June 11 & 12, 2014


Yesterday it sorta rained off & on so we just stayed in and got caught up on things. Went to the commissary, etc. At any rate we just stayed in all day and took a rest

Oh what a beautiful morning and superb weather all day. Sun shining (actually it came out around 1030 last night). Nita's phone bit the dust so we had to go to AT & T to get it working again. Then we took off on a cruise up the Chena River on Discovery I  to the mouth of the river where it empty's into the Tanana River. Tanana river  flows down from the glaciers on  three mountains in Denali Park. You could see the mountains from where we were. You could plainly see the two rivers merging by the shade of the water. One side was clear and the glacier water was milky and murky.
Our River Boat--we sat up top

We were at -40 degrees  in here.  We are official members of the "40 BELOW CLUB"


Intersection of both rivers

Left -Chena River   Right --Tanana River

The first thing we observed was the take off and landing and another take off of a "Bush Pilot" and the first mate talked about the importance of them in the emergency response of trappers and folk who live way outside of the city--people up to two-three hours flying time (one way) away. People who have NO road (they live in the bush) and must rely on the Bush Pilots to bring in supplies or transport them to medical facilities.

Bush Pilot getting airborne.





We stopped by the home and training compound of the famous Susan Butcher's widower, David Munson, and watched trainers connect ten dogs to a 4 wheeler and pull it up to ten miles an hour for about a mile. The 4 wheeler had engine and other weight removed and the brakes greatly enhanced. The dogs were rearing to go as soon as they were hooked up, but the lead dog just sat there until he was told to "Mush", then all of them really pulled together until the very last when he stopped them. When they stopped, it was sudden, all at once. After taking them off the long leash, they headed for the river and jumped in for a drink of water and to frolic. What a sight. There were several puppies being trained as we watched and it was an enjoyable sight.



               Some of the dogs in training are shown here, in all this trainer has about 50 dogs.
A trainer showing older dogs, who help train puppies and do pretty good PR.





Susan Butcher was the second woman to win  the Iditarod race. She won three consecutive in 1986, 1987 and 1988 and again in. 1990, She competed in 1985 but had to drop out when two dogs were killed and six injured in a skirmish with a bull moose.   She died of cancer several years ago.  The sled dog represents a sport that thousands of people enjoy.

At the mouth of the rivers we stopped at a Alaskan Athabaskan Indian village. Of course it was built to teach us how they lived and survived in weather as low as -70 degrees below zero. They had the huts and leanto's as well as the drying racks for salmon and demonstrated for us how they did it.There were skins off every type animal and talks on how they were used in protective clothing. different skins were used for different articles because of toughness (caribou, elk, bear),  durability (bear, elk, wolverine) softness( some fox, mink), water shedding ability (beaver) and decorative (fox, rabbit, ermine), gloves (squirrel, rabbit ). I didn't know that reindeer (imported from Russa) were domesticated while caribou is wild yet both the same animal. HA, my lesson for today. Caribou have hollow strands of hair for insulation which makes clothing warm, lightweight and water resistant.
a salmon catcher

This is a water driven wheel that catches fish and deposits them in a box, the indians have used them for many years.  They have a 10 thousand year history in Alaska.

salmon in smoker

salmon pre drying before smoker
Indian baby carrier. Rabbit fur used as bottom liner and when it got stained, it was thrown away and replaced.  The first disposal diaper!
Caribou cooking vessel. Fire rock in wrapper


A typical Indian Hut of caribou, carried from site to site.

A temporary hunting hut, left when the hunter moved on.

Reindeer








A trapper/trader store

Caribou hide

A moose Hide

Reindeer hide
bear and two reindeer hides

A pair of reindeer boots


There were cabins which indicated  the arrival of the Westerner (white man) and how they survived the cold and their impact on the domestication of the Indian. It was really interesting to listen to the guides explain the history to us.. Most  of the clothing took months to make and their worth today would be in the thousands. One coat we saw was valued at $20,000 and it was beautiful. See the pictures here.
The $20,000 coat designed from reindeer, muskrat, wolverine and small animals

One woman worked on the coat, full time for 6 months.  It tells the owners family, village, and the designs tell many stories of the family.  A coat will be made for one person but will pass down from father to son and mother to daughter and eventually be worn by many members of the family and passed down for many years.

The guides were Indian/eskimo college students explaining the lifestyle of their ancestors. (The young lady modeling the coat, above, just graduated high school.)  They were so knowledgeable, poised and proud of their heritage.  We were impressed. 

I wanted to take my honey out to dinner, so we went to "The Pump House". The first mate recommended it as we passed it by on the river. It is a converted gold mine water pumping station from years ago. The base foundation is the old pump station. the upper is all new restaurant. It looked like a great place to take her, and it was. I (we) had our taste buds set on salmon and they served it with cucumber and squash with rice and Wabash sauce . MAN! was it ever so delicious and I am  glad I took her there. Next time tho, I'm going to have the Reindeer  or the Elk.

An original water pump


A carved tree into a totem pole 

A "Bear" Bartender


The sled of the original chef (he previously worked at the white house) who had a massive heart attack while dog sledding, something he loved to do. It hangs upside down in front of the door to the kitchen.

This was one of the best days of our trip.  It's going to be hard to top!

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