We got away from Whitehorse around 10:30 and drove to Teslin, Yukon and stopped for a visit with the George Johnson Museum and the Teslin Tlingit Heritage Museum. Both were excellent exhibits of their own and I’ll try to explain them to you.
George Johnson Museum.
George Johnson was a Tlingit Indian who became one of the area’s most prominent citizens. He opened a general store and was a very good businessman. Being an uneducated native he had to struggle with life in general and even more so to accomplish his mission.
George became a photographer of his people and the area, and he was able to capture them as they wanted and not unknowingly like we do today so often. His pictures documented his and his people’s way of life. Using a small camera purchased from a catalogue for $7.99 (about 1920) from a company very similar to Sears Roebuck, he also learned how to develop his film to realize almost instant pictures and prided himself that he didn’t have to wait while the film was developed in Whitehorse. It would have taken weeks because of the distance to get there.
His one other noted accomplishment was the purchase of a 1926 Chevrolet four door at a time when he not only did not know how to drive, -the company that sold it to him taught him before he took it back to Teslin,-there were no roads in Teslin to drive it on. In order to get it back to Teslin from Whitehorse aboard the Steamer S.S. Keno they had to cut a larger opening in the side of the ship to get it in. Must have been quite a struggle and to get the captain of the boat to cut a larger opening.
Since Teslin did not have any roads, George and his pals cut a swath of road through the trees of a couple of blocks and later extended it about three kilometers. He started a taxi service of sorts and charged customers $2.00 per ride. He then used the money to pay his friends to lengthen the road. When Winter came he discovered he could drive it on the Teslin Lake after it froze over thus giving him an 86 mile highway. Gas being scarce, he used Naphtha (like alcohol) bought at the local drug and hardware store. Naphtha was the original fuel for automobiles before gas. The motor would run on either. ( NASCAR used to use a lot of it to bolster the power of the race car). When WWII started and the Army showed up to build the ALCAN (Alaska) Highway, they bought his highway and made it a part of the ALCAN. Rebuilt it of course. But then again it gave George more highway to drive on.
He also used the car for hunting. But it’s black color startled the game so he painted it white with house paint in the winter and back to black in the summer
After the war he became disenchanted and at odds with the government because of the way the Tlingit’s were treated. Like the American Indians, the U.S. and Canadian governments royally screwed them over by taking their land and homes, relocating them several times and refused to recognize them. Of note, there were no diseases before the road and many of them died from measles, mumps‘, and pneumonia because the U.S. Army refused to treat them and they had the only doctors available. The nearest (and only one Dr. at that time ) was in Whitehorse, 120 miles away.
After many, many years of fighting the government, they finally gained their independence (all eleven tribes) and the right to self govern from the Canadian government. Today, they are also an integral part of the Canadian Government as well as governing themselves.
George had traded his car for a truck in Whitehorse and later after he died, the car company restored it, gave it to the Canadian government who now allows his museum in Teslin to display it. They had a difficult time trying to determine the original color because of the many coats of paint that had been applied by George.
We were able to watch a movie that chronicled his life that was very interesting. I love watching that type of movies. I know I missed a lot but it’s OK, I’m getting older.
Elk Hide
Beaver
Hawk
Marmot
Fish catcher
Side of Cabin
1926 Chevrolet
Sealskin blanket
Lynx Paw Blanket
Dress Regala
Tlingit Heritage Center.
The center was built by the Tlingit’s as a place to exhibit their artistic abilities to the general public and as a training/school facility to teach the children their heritage. We watched a movie on the Indian history of the year there were two winters. A volcano eruption in Thailand created a great black cloud that shut out the sun for the summer months. The animals left, the people suffered the cold and hunger and many died.
While there we were allowed to snack on a bread called “Bannon”. It is a bread that is fried similar to cake donuts. MAN! Was it ever delicious. Nita and I each had three of them. I put butter, peanut butter and preserves on mine and “pigged out” Nita has the recipe and plans on making some in the near future (tomorrow maybe, ha!) Sorry, no photo.
We have spent many hours in the “Indian” facilities. Their history is so interesting and similar to the Aboriginals of Australia. They had no written language but their culture has been handed down in their stories, songs, dances and artwork. They have lived in a harsh land for several thousand years and have amazing knowledge of the land, plants and animals. In many ways the modern world has changed their lifestyle but for the most part they are realizing the value of their heritage.
Tribal council office
building a log cabin
Eagle sculpture
papoose carrier
Ceremonial Vest
Two saddles
Moving along we crossed river the Nisutlin Bay Bridge. It is the longest water span on the Alaska Highway. Nisutlin River forms the “Bay” as it flows into Teslin Lake which as I mentioned is 86 miles long, averages two miles wide and is the longest in the Yukon. The Tlingit name for it is “Teslintoo”( long narrow water).
For tonight we are in the Big Creek Bridge Yukon Government Campground between Upper Liard and Watson Lake, Yukon since they don’t allow us to park along the highway like Alaska does. It’s full but we were able to park along one of the roads without blocking traffic. A rule said we must park in a authorized campsite but we ignored it. Just too late to look for another campground and hope they have a space available.
No comments:
Post a Comment
Hope you like our blog, please leave a comment.