Sunday, August 17, 2014

Post 8-16-2014 Juneau

Post 8-16-2014 Juneau

This morning we took a cruise from Haines to Juneau for the day. The Fjordland cruiser left at 0900 and we got back at 1930. The trip each way took three hours.

WOW, what a fun and fulfilled  day we had. On  the way to Juneau we were able to stop and observe a group of seals sunning on the rocks.

We had a couple hours to kill in Juneau so we went to lunch at a Russian Style small restaurant that served the absolute most delicious stuffed dumplings. I had mine in a chicken broth that was just mouth watering. Nita had hers plain and both were great. We had a Russian Taco filled with salmon, tomatoes,  cream cheese and a special sauce that was also delicious.

 Before we left  Juneau we were able to see the Mendenhall Glacier located just outside of Juneau. It is another slowly receding glacier that is effected by global warming (natural warming) like many others in Alaska. Alaska also has almost as many that grow each year. So much for global warming.

On the way back we stopped and watched a couple Hump-Back Whales as they frolicked. One was a female who had her  calf  with her. We only saw one dive with their fluke extended. They mostly just “ blew ‘ and submerged for short periods. Was really interesting watching them.

They winter over in Hawaii and calve there but always return to Alaska for the krill and fatten up for the trip back to Hawaii. Interesting enough, they supposedly don’t eat after leaving Alaska waters until they return.






Harbor Seals-they go to san Francisco in Winter

Elder Light House is for sale. Must keep light  operating.

In front of motor home


Thief flew in and took fish


Our Fjordland Vessel



Our beautiful waitress, Sarah,  at Samavor's Russian Restaurant in Juneau. Thank you Sarah.


Elder Island for sale.

Alaska's Fireweed. Beautiful flowering plant

Samavor's in Juneau

Where to?

Statue of deaf dog named "Patsy Ann"that lived on the waterfront for 15 years  that could sense incoming ships and where they were going to be berthed. 

Red Dog Saloon


Mendenhall Glacier


Mendenhall Waterfall

Out tour guide Ian from the UK. Spoke with a strong  "Cockney" accent

Our Fjordland Captain George.

Our wonderful hostess Alixanne, a 27 year old who wants to become a Nurse, yet is gaining valuable hours operating a commercial ship toward her Coast Guard License. She is listed as "First Mate" Good luck Alix in your ventures.

Inside Red Dog Saloon. supposedly a famous place dating back to the later 19th century. It was a hotel/bar/saloon/restaurant/bordello kind of place. Every possible inch of space where you could sign your name was inked in. 

Friday, August 15, 2014

Post 8-15-2014 Haines, AK




Post 8-15-2014 Haines

We’ll try to update you on our time spent in Haines. It was interesting  and we saw a few things.

Our trip over the mountain pass from Haines Junction was an experience we didn’t want to repeat. Most of the drive was as we expected but once we got above the tree line the wind picked up and it got a bit damp driving through the clouds as we went over the pass. There were taller mountains around and some had snow/ice/glaciers on them. Hard to get too excited about them anymore since we see so many of them.

We hit a spot of several miles of driving through some very thick clouds that slowed us down to 15-20 mph and less. Nita was driving and mentioned we should pull over and wait it out. I told her it may take a few days at that altitude. So, we eased on to get clear of it. (Let's pretend the white space between paragraphs is a photo. That's what we were looking at, WHITE!)

We had to cross the border again to get back into AK. Getting used to that now. Then we drove along the river basin where the eagles gather during late August through November to reap the last of the spawning salmon and trout. We saw a few but nothing as we expected. We did happen upon a rafting group at a pull out and joined the crew having coffee and a cookie.

Arriving in Haines, we couldn’t find a parking spot for the bus so we opted for a spot facing the marina and the sea wall adjacent to the RV park. It had the best view around and we enjoyed staying there. The fjord was immediately in front of us and we could watch the 15-20 ft tides move in and out quickly.

Day two it rained most of the day but we did visit the “Hammer Museum”. the place was small but had 2,000 different hammers on display and one of the attendants said there was over 4,000 in storage awaiting a display place. It was just incredible. You just can’t imagine that there are that many different kinds of hammers and a lot of them still in use every day. Think about it. How many hammers can you name? Maybe the photos’ will show some of them for you.
 










We talked to the owner of the museum and he told the story of the wood "hammer".  The man pictured, used the driftwood "hammer" to break the window of the truck, with owner's dog inside, sinking in the water at the boat launch.  (Jeff, ring a bell?)  The dog was saved, the truck sank and when pulled out days later, the "hammer" was on the hood.  The dog is the official greeter at the museum. 


We drove out to the cannery and bought some fresh “sockeye” salmon that I am going to bake and I know it will be delicious. Close to the cannery, there is a fish “counting” station. They string a line of barriers across the river leaving only a small opening where they can count the ones getting through. The fish then go upstream into the lake and spawn.

 There are bears in the area that come down the mountain to fish. We saw two black ones that were scurrying back up  after running across the road.  We think they were last years (or two years ago) cubs that have been kicked out by mama bear. She does that when she has mated again.




Several people were fishing the stream as well. They are aware of the bears but know how to deal with them and warning signs are everywhere. Stupidity is of no use LOL.

We had dinner in a restaurant that dates back to the turn of the 19th century. It was a  saloon and bordello and had a few rooms to rent to the gold prospectors of the day and is still in operation. A madam rented part of it and strung a beaded curtain across a door and started the “Bamboo Room” Restaurant in the 1920‘s. We had the baked salmon and it was mouth watering delicious.

We told you about Juneau where we went Saturday. Juneau is reachable only by boat or by air. There are no roads to get there although there has been a proposal to build one so it could serve the gold mine it would pass. It keeps getting shot down primarily because the gold mine makes $500,000 a day and they should build their own road. AH, politics. As it is, Juneau only has one highway  that extends 59 miles around  the city.  Yet, when you see the number of automobiles and tourist bus’es crowding the road it makes you wonder. And, then again, there were three cruise ships in port so you know there were thousands of tourists there. All the shops in the area where we were supposedly were owned by the cruise lines and were a bit expensive especially jewelry.

We went to the "American Bald Eagle Foundation", a natural history museum that includes 200 specimens of fish and wildlife.  This little Arctic Snow Owl was our first example of the rescue work they do.  He was found with an injured wing and will never fly again, but he has a good home for life.
The two eagles were the stars of the show  They were both brought in about the same time, and they are about the same age, but the female, Bella, is dominant.  The male is very shy and won't even eat when people are watching.  They are both injured and will never live in the wild again.
                                                                       The male eagle
                                                                         Bella
Bella, eating her lunch of salmon but her favorite food is rabbit.

                                                   The totem pole is one of many in Haines.


                                     This beautiful waterfall is near where we saw the two ears.
                                       The town of Haines from Portage Cove State Park

We told you about Juneau where we went Saturday. Juneau is reachable only by boat or by air. There are no roads to get there although there has been a proposal to build one so it could serve the gold mine it would pass. It keeps getting shot down primarily because the gold mine makes $500,000 a day and they should build their own road. AH, politics. As it is, Juneau only has one highway  that extends 59 miles around  the city.  Yet, when you see the number of automobiles and tourist bus’es crowding the road it makes you wonder. And, then again, there were three cruise ships in port so you know there were thousands of tourists there. All the shops in the area where we were supposedly were owned by the cruise lines and were a bit expensive especially jewelry.


Monday, August 4, 2014

Post 8-4-20124 Valdez to Tok, Chicken and Dawson city


Post 8-4-2014 Valdez to Tok, Chicken and Dawson City

Glacier along highway


Getting our normal late start, we strolled along the highway and stopped at a few places we passed by coming into Valdez.  First up was at a water fall that you could walk up to and observe closely.  Next stop was where the intended railroad would go through the mountains. Seem there were about nine companies vieing for the project. All disagreed who would be owner and it ensued into a gun battle.  This one ended up not being built. Another tunnel was completed and this was still being dug through when they stopped.

                                                                                              The old railroad tunnel entrance


While at the tunnel we discovered I had failed to reinstall the gas cap in Valdez. So we had to un-couple the truck and I drove the 22 miles back to get it. My bad for the day. So I thought

Next we stopped at Mount Worthing Glacier and walked as close to it as we could. Several people were walking all the way to it but it would have been just too much for us. It is farther away than it appears and a lot of rock climbing would have to be done.  You can't see them, but there are  few people on the glacier.


I have developed a terrible cough that just kept getting worse. It along with this chest cold was making me miserable, so we decided to stop outside Tok for the night. During the night it got much worse and Nita thought we should find a doctor. The next morning we did. He checked me over, took an x-ray and gave me more medications to take.  They worked.

After a day in Tok, we headed up the road to “Chicken” with plans to go on across to Yukon Territory to “Dawson City. Having heard about the road from Chicken to Dawson City, we decided to leave the motor home in Chicken and drive the truck. Good decision but will entail extra driving to get back to Chicken.

                                                                                         This Chicken is made of metal from school lockers in Homer, AK.  It was trucked to Chicken, 615 miles, at 20 mph.

                Scenes from Chicken                               Typical little log cabin with moss and grass roof
First, about the name Chicken.  It seems that the townsfolk wanted to name their town for the state bird, the ptarmigan, but no one knew how to spell it.  Since they all called the ptarmigan a "chicken", they just named the town "Chicken".  And so it is!  
                                                                           The Chicken, AK post office

The road, 120 miles between the two is mostly a gravel/ dirt/mountain after mountain,  winding road that is quite narrow in places and hardly any traffic. It is called  “Top of the World Highway” and believe me it is.  They used to call it the ridge road because it went over the mountains instead of through the valley's. You can see forever. There are NO gas stations along the way. Only one pull over rest stop with out- houses. I think  there was 15 miles of newly new bedded/built up new highway from the border station toward Chicken”



Dawson City

What a unique place. First, you have to take a ferry across the Yukon River that is a “trip”. It’s a small ferry that holds five or six vehicles. There is no pier or landing except where they build up the waters edge with gravel  and ram the ferry into the bank. They keep a pile of dirt/gravel  adjacent to the water and a back hoe to rebuild as necessary.


Dawson City is where the Klondike Gold Rush started and became later a staging area for stocking up supplies for  would be miners, assaying gold  found and sending it on to Vancouver  for banking. They went through several methods for digging that eventually ended with dredging. As they modernized the city, they never paved any roads or streets and they are still dirt  with wooden boardwalks. There are numerous buildings that were preserved “as was”.  We visited "Diamond Tooth Gerties Gambling Hall" and enjoyed the show.  Learned later that it is a "not for profit" local organization, operated by the visitors association and the proceeds are reinvested in the community.


We visited the “Robert Service” Cabin where he lived until 1912 at which time he relocated to Europe until he died in 1958. A neighbor bought the place and has preserved it since. It is a really unique two rooms where he lived and worked writing his poetry.




Next, right down the road, was “Jack London’s” Cabin, where he wrote  “Call of the Wild” and “White Fang”, but we couldn't go inside the cabin and couldn't look without paying for a tour.

So, across the river by ferry and we came  back to Chicken.

Should you ever come this way, Dawson City should be put on you itinerary. It was a very worthwhile trip even though it’s a bit off the normal path. The roads s are passable even for a “big rig”

Tomorrow off to Tok and ?